Who Owns the Dog Toys?

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Who Owns the Dog Toys?You might think I’m going to be talking about dominance or toy possession, but what’s really on my mind today is the perception of who owns the dogs toys. If that sounds a bit confusing, let me explain.

Here’s a common routine that tends to happen on nights when I’m particularly tired. Haley arrives at my side with a toy. I smile at her and say, “In a little bit,” which means the same thing as when a mom says, “In a minute,” to their child. My oldest son used to ask me, “Is that a real minute or a mom’s minute?” haha! Anyway, Haley will disappear with the toy after a few moments and then return with a different one. If I don’t respond, she’ll try yet another toy until I’m so amused with her method of trying to tempt me with toys, I surrender the laptop and get down on the floor to play with her.

The reverse scenario can happen too. If Haley’s in a lazy mood and I try to entice her with a toy, I may have to try a couple of different toys before I peak her interest. This sometimes makes me wonder how she perceives the toys. Does she know the toys belong to her or does she think the toys are mine when she teases me to play? After all, she watches me carefully select them when we’re at the pet store. I check their squeakers and make sure they pass my inspection for durability. I also rotate the toys occasionally and keep the extra ones in a zippered bag inside my closet.

When Haley brings me a toy and I don’t respond right away, maybe she thinks, “Mom’s not in the mood to play with her rope toy today but I’ll see if she’s interested in her stuffed rabbit.” When I start to play, maybe she’s amused by how silly I am when playing with my toys and how funny it is to watch me chase her around the dining room table trying to reclaim my squeaky ball. When her eyes light up, she might be laughing on the inside about how gullible I am when I’m getting teased with one of my toys as I try to snatch it away.

So Really, Who Owns the Dog Toys?

I can only answer that question by saying that deep inside that zippered bag of toys inside my closet is one very special dog toy, a black and white cow. You see, Haley’s first toy when she was a puppy was a miniature version of this exact cow. Dog Cow ToyShe loved it so much but it met an early demise from those sharp puppy teeth. Years later, I was thrilled to find a bigger version of the same toy at a nearby store. I was so excited to find it but not nearly as excited as Haley was to see it again. I swear she remembers the toy from her puppyhood and every time I unzip the bag of toys, she forces her head deep inside, rummages around and emerges with the cow as her favorite toy from the bag. The problem is, I’m very sentimental about the cow so I usually don’t let her play with it very long. It may sound a little morbid, but it was her first toy and maybe I also want it to be her last. So, I’ll let Haley own all the other toys and I’ll own this one…at least for now.

These are just a few of my random, silly thoughts when I try to think from Haley’s perspective. Over the years, I’ve been able to solve a lot of training and behavioral issues by putting myself in her four-footed shoes and trying to see things from her point of view but sometimes it’s just amusing to imagine what she might be thinking.

Who owns the dog toys in your house? Do you ever have fun trying to think from your dog’s perspective?

How to Take Your Dog’s Temperature

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How to Take Your Dog's TemperatureDo you believe in the adage that healthy dogs have cold, wet noses and sick dogs have warm, dry noses? Even though there’s some truth to that theory, the best way to determine if your pup is running a fever is to take your dog’s temperature. But don’t let Haley fool you with the image above, you’ll actually be working at the other end of your dog when taking their temperature.

I found out how important it is to know how to take a dog’s temperature a few weeks ago after Haley had CCL knee surgery. She was progressing well the first few days after surgery, but then she started having digestive issues that we thought were caused by one of her pain medications. After the vet changed her medication, she still didn’t make much progress with her knee and continued to have a lot of pain symptoms. I assumed the pain stemmed from the surgery until she became weaker and then refused to eat. It wasn’t until I took her temperature and discovered she had a fever of 103.3 degrees that I realized something else was going on.

Another trip to the vet revealed that Haley had infectious colitis. I felt so bad she was suffering with the infection while also trying to recover from knee surgery. Since many fever symptoms happen to be the same as the symptoms of pain expected after the surgery, taking her temperature was key in discovering her colitis. In case you’re not sure how to take your dog’s temperature, here’s what you need to know.

How to Take Your Dog’s Temperature

  1. You’ll need a rectal thermometer and some lubricant. A quick-reading, digital thermometer with a flexible tip works great.
  2. You can take your dog’s temperature while they’re standing or lying down and it’s helpful to have someone secure your dog to prevent any sudden movements while you’re holding the thermometer.
  3. Apply a lubricant such as petroleum jelly or baby oil (vegetable oil can be used in a pinch) to the end of the thermometer.
  4. Gently lift your dog’s tail and insert the thermometer about an inch inside your dog’s rectum. For larger dogs, you may insert it a little further. Don’t force the thermometer if it doesn’t slide in easily with lubricant.
  5. Carefully hold the thermometer in place, keeping it straight until you get a reading.
  6. Clean the thermometer thoroughly with alcohol then wash your hands.
  7. If it’s not clear the thermometer is for dog use only, label it so it’s not confused with your human thermometer.

You can also use an infrared or ear thermometer but rectal thermometers tend to be more accurate. Don’t try to take your dog’s temperature orally, especially if you’re using a glass thermometer.

Thank you, Haley for being a good sport on demonstrating the procedure!

Taking Your Dog's Temperature

Luckily, dogs aren’t easily humiliated.

What’s the Normal Temperature Range for a Dog?

A dog’s normal temperature range is slightly higher than our human range. The normal range for a dog is between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees (Fahrenheit) and anything over 103 degrees is considered a fever. A temperature of 106 degrees and higher should be considered a medical emergency since there’s a risk of damage to internal organs or even death. If your dog has a low temperature, below 99 degrees, you should also seek medical attention.

Taking Your Dog's Temperature

Normal temperature range – 100.5 to 102.5 degrees (Fahrenheit)

Other Signs Your Dog May be Running a Fever

Other symptoms of fever include lethargy or depression, a warm-dry nose, warm ears, red eyes, shivering, loss of appetite, coughing and vomiting.

What Causes a Fever in Dogs?

A fever can be caused by many different things including various types of infections (bacterial, viral or fungal), poisoning, canine influenza, inflammation, immune system disorders, cancer and a reaction to a recent vaccination. Another cause of a high temperature can be heatstroke which is more of a risk during the hot summer months. For more information on heatstroke, check out my post 10 Tips for Exercising Your Dog in the Summer.

How to Treat a Fever

Because there can be so many different causes of fever, you should always contact your vet first to see if your dog may need to have a medical examination. Don’t treat your dog with human medications such as aspirin or acetaminophen which are toxic to dogs.

If it’s not possible to speak with a vet right away and your dog’s temperature is above 103 degrees, you can cool your dog by applying a towel soaked with cool water to your dog’s fur and if possible, use a fan to aid in cooling. Focus on cooling the paws, ears, stomach and armpits while also offering your dog ice chips or cool water to drink. Continue to check your dog’s temperature and stop the cooling when it comes down to 103 degrees.

Knowing how to take your dog’s temperature is an important skill that can help your dog stay healthier. If your dog’s not feeling well, early detection of fever means earlier and more successful treatment of the underlying cause.

Have you ever taken your dog’s temperature? Share your tips with us below!

Leading Your Dog by the Nose

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Leading Your Dog by the NoseThis training tip is so simple it almost seems silly to write about it, but some dog owners might not realize how effective this positive training technique can be when training a new behavior. Leading your dog by the nose means you’re using your pup’s primary sense, his sense of smell, to motivate him to learn more quickly. What’s the motivator? Food, of course! Let’s face it, all dogs have to eat and most are highly motivated by treats or tasty food.

The trick isn’t just giving food as a reward, it’s using the food to direct your dog’s body movement from their nose while learning a new command. By holding the food close to their nose, without letting them grab it, they’ll usually follow your hand into the desired position while you give a verbal command or hand gesture. Soon, they’ll make the connection between the action and the verbal command. Here are a few examples.

Examples of Leading Your Dog by the Nose

  • Sit Command– The treat is held close to your dog’s nose then raised slightly. As your dog follows the treat upwards, his backend will automatically lower into a sitting position. To learn more about teaching the Sit command, check out my post The Most Useful Command to Teach Your Dog.
  • Down Command – From a sitting position, the treat is held close to your dog’s nose, then slowly lowered as your dog follows the treat to the floor and lowers himself into a down position. Read How to Teach Your Dog the Down Command to learn more.
  • Roll Over – From a down position, lure your dog’s nose up and around so he’ll follow the treat with his nose and roll over.

Here’s Haley following her nose while demonstrating the Down command.

When some people train their pups, they hold the treat close to their body as if to say “This is mine until you hold up your end of the bargain”, but in the examples above, the treat is held close to your dog’s nose and only given when he follows through with the command. For commands that direct a movement, this can be a powerful training tool because it enlists your dog’s appetite as well as his strong sense of smell. It’s also important to give lots of praise when your pup is successful when learning the new command.

Isn’t That Bribing My Dog to Comply?

Maybe, but only when you’re first starting to train the new command. Let me explain the difference between a bribe and a reward. A bribe is given before or during a behavior to lure your dog into following a command and a reward is given after the dog performs the desired behavior. With this technique, you are luring your dog by his nose into a position, but only giving the treat as a reward if he follows through. Once your dog starts to catch on to the associated verbal command or hand gesture, you’ll start holding the treat further away until eventually he’ll follow the command without seeing the food first.

After that point, you’ll transition to intermittent rewards or use others types of non-food rewards, such as praise, affection or playtime. Other ways of rewarding your dog can be to ask him to sit before getting his meal, going outside or playing a game of fetch. Even after your dog knows a command well, there’s nothing better than an occasional, unexpected food reward to help reinforce good manners and listening skills.

Won’t My Dog Get Fat?

There are several ways to use food as a reward without adding a lot of extra calories to your dog’s diet. If you feed your dog kibble, you can just take a portion from their daily meal to use as training treats. You can also purchase small, low-calorie training treats from your local pet store or use small pieces of meat or cheese. Remember, you’ll be working towards intermittent treats and eventually using other non-food types of rewards too.

Does This Technique Work With all Commands?

No. There are some commands, such as the Stay command, where holding a treat will be counterproductive since a dog’s instinct is to move towards something that smells yummy. In this example, it would be better to keep the treat in your pocket or out of sight until your dog performs the command.

Wrapping It Up

Dog Nose

Follow your nose, pups!

Leading your dog by the nose uses food along with your dog’s appetite and sense of smell to make training success quicker and easier. Food can be a powerful reward and reinforcer of behavior for your dog and even though this technique is kind of like having a canine magic wand, you’ll want to make the transition from bribe to reward fairly quickly.

What’s your experience with using food or treats when training your dog?

Leading Your Dog by the Nose

Dealing with CCL Knee Injuries in Dogs

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Dealing With CCL Knee InjuriesUnfortunately, what I’ve been worrying about for years has happened. Haley recently ruptured her CCL. If you don’t know what the CCL is, it’s the cranial cruciate ligament, equivalent to the ACL in our human knees. Her knee problems started about three years ago when she stretched the ligament. Even though it tightened up after a few weeks of limited activity, it’s given her trouble on and off since then and arthritis added insult to injury, so to speak.

All of the things I’ve done to try to protect Haley’s knee, like starting her on Adequan injections, were outmatched by a few meandering deer passing through our backyard. She set off to protect her territory on four legs but returned from the chase hobbling on just three. After giving her several days to see if her condition improved, she would only put a little weight on the leg while walking and she would hop along on three legs when she wanted to move faster. I had a bad feeling about her condition and our vet confirmed my suspicion; she had ruptured her CCL and needed surgery. Ugh!

The first part of this video shows how Haley was getting around before her surgery.

Why Are CCL Knee Injuries So Common?

CCL injuries are one of the most common orthopedic injuries in dogs. I’ve known several family members and friends whose dogs required CCL surgery and one of Haley’s littermates has the exact same knee injury.

Some dogs injure the ligament while running when they quickly change directions. The shift in their body direction at high speed puts a great deal of weight and stress on the knee, especially if a dog is overweight or obese. Other dogs may have chronic degenerative ligament disease where the ligaments become weak with age and eventually stretch, tear or rupture.

Dogs at a higher risk of ligament problems are spayed females and larger breed dogs. A few studies have found a link between early spaying and neutering and an increased risk of CCL injuries related to the role that sex hormones play in bone growth and development. Another reason CCL injuries might be so common is the increased number of overweight and obese dogs these days.

Do Ruptured CCLs Always Require Surgery?

I’ve read a lot of articles about successful, non-surgical treatments for ruptured CCLs but most of those remedies work best for small dogs under 25 pounds with most treatments being coupled with a period of restricted physical activity. Some dog owners have had success with stifle braces or custom-made casts. Even though there’s a variety of therapeutic and holistic types of treatment, surgery is often the best option for larger dogs and it was the course of action recommended by Haley’s vet.

Types of CCL Surgical Repairs

There are several types of surgical repairs for CCL knee injuries. Some require cutting the bone and using plates to stabilize the joint such as the Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy (TPLO) or Tibial Tuberosity Advancement (TTA). Other surgeries are suture based where a heavy suture or wire is used to stabilize the joint which takes over the function of the ligament until scar tissue can form to help stabilize the knee. For more details on surgery options, check out this article by the American College of Veterinary Surgeons. It’s good to keep in mind, one of the most important factors affecting the outcome of the surgery is the experience level of the surgeon.

Haley had the extra-capsular suture stabilization type of surgery a little over a week ago. The first 48 hours after surgery were a little rough, especially when it came time for her to do her business outside and none of us got much sleep around here. I saw a big improvement on the third and fourth day after surgery but then she had a side effect to Rimadyl (one of her pain medications) that forced us to discontinue its use, so she’s been in a little more pain while finishing out this first week. She’s such a trouper and an exceptionally tolerant patient, especially when I have to do her rehab flexion and extension exercises.

One Week After CCL Surgery

One week after Haley’s CCL surgery

Here are some tips I’ve discovered over the past week while helping Haley recover from her surgery.

10 Tips for Helping Your Dog After CCL Surgery

1. Sleeping Arrangements
Consider sleeping near your dog for the first few nights after surgery. We camped out in the family room with Haley so we could comfort her and help her get up and lie down when needed. We also moved her food and water bowls into the room so she wouldn’t have to walk very far. You probably won’t get very much sleep those first two nights, so be sure to catch some zzz’s whenever your pup is napping peacefully.
2. Addressing the Whining
There will probably be some whining and whimpering during the first 48 hours after surgery. It’s usually related to pain, but it can also mean your dog needs to go outside or they’re hungry, thirsty or cold. Bringing Haley a bowl of water or a little food or even covering her with a blanket would often stop the whining and she would go back to sleep and rest awhile longer.
3. Baby Gates
A few carefully placed baby gates makes it easy to provide enough confinement without resorting to using a crate. I was really concerned that Haley might try to jump up on our bed at night and reinjure her knee, especially once she starts feeling a little better. I used a couple of baby gates and zip ties to create a makeshift pen that secures her but still allows her to stay close to us at night.
DIY Dog Pen
4. Ice Packs
If you don’t have a ice pack in your freezer, a bag of frozen peas works perfectly. It forms well around the knee joint and can be reused over and over again.
5. Slings
You may have to carry your dog up steps for a while and if you have a larger dog, a sling makes the job much easier. A sling can also be useful to support your pup when they go to the bathroom during the first few days. A thin towel folded lengthwise and looped under their belly works well or try this clever idea from Jen at My Brown Newfies.
6. Make a Schedule
Between giving various pain pills and medications at different intervals and icing and warming the knee joint several times a day, it can be easy to forgot something unless you have a written schedule. Put the schedule on your refrigerator so everyone can help keep an eye on what needs to be done. It’s especially important to stay ahead of the pain by remembering to give each dose of pain medication on time.
7. Potty Pads
It’s not uncommon for some dogs to have an accident after surgery because it’s hard for them to get up and they may be slightly sedated from the pain medicine. Disposable absorbent pads can help protect carpet or your dog’s bed and they make clean up quick and easy. Luckily, Haley didn’t have this issue but it’s always good to be prepared.
8. Slippery Surfaces
Try to keep your dog off slippery floors until they start putting weight on the injured leg. It’s pretty easy for them to lose their footing while hobbling around on three legs and it’s also harder for them to get up from a resting position if they happen to lie down on a slick floor. We’ve tried several types of paw traction products recently, from booties and socks to toe grips and paw wax, but none have worked very well for Haley.
9. Watch the Backend
Monitor what’s coming out of your dog to make sure they aren’t having an issue with their pain medication. Haley had a problem with loose stools but when we started noticing blood in her stool, our vet had to change one of her pain meds and we needed to add a probiotic and a daily dose of raw pumpkin to help get her back to normal.
10. The Dreaded Doorbell
I’m so glad my son mentioned this tip because I probably wouldn’t have thought about it until it was too late. If your dog tends to spring up and run to the door when the doorbell rings, it’s a good idea to disconnect it while they’re recovering. Thanks, Cody!

CCL Surgery Incision

Haley’s CCL Incision

It’s been a pretty rough week around here, but I know Haley will be on the mend soon and before too long we’ll be back out on the trails again. A huge part of ensuring successful CCL surgery is following through with the rehab schedule and making sure your dog doesn’t overdo any physical activity once they start feeling better but before they’re completely healed. So, that’s how we’ll be spending the next 11 weeks and I’ll try to update the video with her progress as we go along.

I hope the information and tips are helpful if your dog might be facing CCL surgery in the future. If you’ve already been through this, share your experience and any tips you might have. I’d love to hear them! Dealing With CCL Knee Injuries

Why Do Female Dogs Mark Their Territory?

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Why Do Female Dogs Mark Their Territory?When I think about dogs marking their territory, the first image that comes to mind is a male dog hiking his leg and relieving himself on every bush, pole or fire hydrant he comes across. I never associated urine marking with female dogs until Haley started doing it a few years ago. It’s common for intact males or unspayed females to mark their territory to advertise their availability for mating (think Tinder for dogs ), but since Haley was spayed at a young age, it seems strange that she would start this habit later in life.

When she was younger, Haley might stop one time while on a walk to relieve herself but now she stops many times to sniff, pee a little and leave her “Haley Was Here” message to others. She also watches at the front window, keeping a close eye on her yard for any neighborhood canine intruders that might step onto the lawn. After they pass, she can’t wait to go outside to repair her invisible scent fence along the boundary of the yard. It’s amusing to watch because she’ll sniff the ground where they walked, glance down the street at them, then pee to cover their scent. She’s not exactly Clint Eastwood in Gran Torino, but she is saying “Get off my lawn!” in her own way.

While hiking, I’ve seen Haley do the two step, walking while squatting routine on another dog’s scent and I’ve even seen her attempt to pee on a tree which is quite funny since she’s not a leg lifter. I know dogs are territorial and marking is a way of denoting their boundaries but I’m curious why she started doing this later in life. Here are a couple of theories I’ve come across.

Theories for Why Female Dogs Mark Their Territory

Claiming Territory or Possessions
This theory makes a lot of sense and we humans can relate to marking our territory too, like when we write our names on things or decorate our spaces. It reminds me of those battles over territory between Jim and Dwight on the sitcom “The Office”.

Since dogs lack opposable thumbs or staplers and pencils, they must rely on using their body language, barking or marking with urine or poop. Yep, some dogs actually poop on things to leave their scent. Yikes! I’m thankful Haley only feels compelled to mark her boundaries outside of the house. She has her favorite spots to mark, like the grassy median strip at the entrance to our neighborhood and I get the impression she thinks that area belongs to her since she reclaims it each time we go for a walk.

Insecurity or Anxiety
Dogs that are insecure or anxious may mark their territory when another dog or person seems to be encroaching on their space and their territory is threatened. Usually the marking is done outside, but it’s not uncommon for an insecure dog to mark inside the house when a new person, baby or dog comes into the family home. Haley was a fearful dog when she was younger, but she’s come a long way in gaining confidence over the years. I don’t think she’s marking outside because of insecurity because I think she would have done that when she young younger and more fearful.

Dominance
Dogs gather a lot of information from the pheromones found in other dog’s urine markings such as identity, gender, age, social status and whether a dog has been spayed, neutered or is in season. The dominance theory suggests dogs mark as a way to display dominance and make a statement about their social status, with more dominant dogs only peeing over or beside the scent of lower ranking dogs. That’s an interesting theory that might explain why Haley sniffs many scents but only marks some of them while leaving others alone.

Testosterone
Female dogs produce a small amount of testosterone and some people believe that females with a higher than normal level of the hormone are more likely to mark their territory. I guess that’s a possibility but I’m not sure if Haley’s testosterone level would have increased as she got older.

Smiling Senior Dog

You got pee-mail!

If I were to make a guess, I would say Haley’s probably claiming territory but maybe her pee-mail is just a way of announcing her presence to the outside world. Either way, it’s hard not to think about her acting more like a male dog when she’s leaving her mark all over town. If you want to learn more about canine scent marking, check out Dr. Karen Becker’s article What Do Your Dog’s Urination Rituals Really Mean?

Do you have a spayed, female dog that marks her territory? What’s your theory?